Overview
EN ISO 13936-1:2004 specifies the fixed seam opening method for determining the resistance offered by thread systems in woven fabrics to slippage at a sewn seam. Published as a CEN-endorsed European Standard in 2004 and prepared by ISO/TC 38 (Textiles) SC24, this Part 1 method complements Parts 2 and 3 of ISO 13936, providing a standardized approach for laboratory assessment of seam slippage.
This method is intended for woven fabrics and is explicitly not suitable for stretch fabrics or certain industrial fabrics (e.g., beltings). The procedure supports consistent quality control, material selection and comparative performance reporting across suppliers and laboratories.
Key Topics
- Scope and purpose: Measures the force required to produce a fixed seam opening, quantifying seam slippage (yarn movement at a seam).
- Principle: A seamed and an unseamed specimen are extended in a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile tester; the force corresponding to a specified seam opening is recorded and used to express slippage resistance.
- Apparatus: Typical equipment includes a CRE tensile testing machine with grab-type jaws, recording device, cutting and sewing equipment, and conditioning facilities.
- Sewing requirements: Use of stitch type 301 (single-needle lockstitch) is specified to ensure repeatable stitch formation and interaction with the fabric.
- Conditioning and pretreatment: Specimens are conditioned under the standard textile atmosphere defined in ISO 139. Optional laundering or dry-cleaning pretreatment should be agreed by interested parties and may follow established procedures (for example, ISO garment care methods).
- Sampling and specimen preparation: The standard describes selection and cutting of representative specimens and preparation of matched seamed and unseamed samples for paired testing.
Applications
This standard is relevant to textile laboratories, apparel manufacturers, product designers and quality assurance teams who need to:
- Evaluate seam performance and predict potential seam-related failures in garments and sewn goods.
- Compare thread/yarn and stitch system choices for specific woven materials.
- Support incoming inspection, product development and supplier qualification.
- Provide documented, repeatable results for compliance and technical specifications.
Benefits include improved decision-making on thread and stitch systems, reduced field failures, and consistent reporting across labs and suppliers.
Related Standards
- ISO 139 - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing textiles (conditioning requirements referenced).
- ISO 4915 - Stitch types - classification and terminology (stitch type 301 usage).
- ISO 7500-1, ISO 10012 - Referenced for tensile machine verification and measurement management.
- Other ISO methods for laundering/pretreatment such as ISO 6330 or ISO 3175-2 may be used when agreed by parties.
For practitioners, EN ISO 13936-1:2004 delivers a repeatable, laboratory-level method for assessing seam slippage and informs better material and production choices in woven textile products.
