ISO 20418-3:2020 PDF

Textiles — Qualitative and quantitative proteomic analysis of some animal hair fibres — Part 3: Peptide detection using LC-MS without protein reduction

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Title (English):

ISO 20418-3:2020

Textiles — Qualitative and quantitative proteomic analysis of some animal hair fibres — Part 3: Peptide detection using LC-MS without protein reduction

Document status:: Active
Format:: Electronic (PDF)
Number of pages:: 24
Publication date:: June 5, 2020
Edition:: ISO IS 20418 edition 1 version 1
ICS:: 59.060.01

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Description (English):

This document specifies a qualitative and quantitative procedure to determine the composition of animal hair fibre blends (made of wool, cashmere, yak, alpaca, camel or angora) by LC-MS without protein reduction. NOTE 1 The composition of non-animal hair fibres can be measured by ISO 1833 (all parts). Both results are combined to determine the total fibre composition. The method is based on a preliminary identification, by light microscopy, of all fibres in the blend on the basis of their morphology, according to ISO/TR 11827[4]. It is not applicable if fibres of the same animal species (such as blends of cashmere and mohair) are present. NOTE 2 In this case, the quantitative analysis is performed using microscopical analysis [for example, ISO 17751 (all parts)].

Technical details

Technical committee: ISO/TC 38 - Textiles
SKU: ISO 20418-3:2020

Abstract

Overview

ISO 20418-3:2020 specifies a qualitative and quantitative proteomic procedure to determine the composition of animal hair fibre blends (wool, cashmere, yak, alpaca, camel, angora) using peptide detection by LC‑MS without protein reduction. Part of the ISO 20418 series (first edition 2020), this method combines light‑microscopy pre‑identification with trypsin digestion of mechanically powdered fibres and LC‑MS analysis of species‑specific marker peptides to calculate blending ratios and total fibre composition.

Keywords: ISO 20418-3:2020, LC-MS, peptide detection, proteomic analysis, animal hair fibres, cashmere authentication, textile testing.

Key technical topics and requirements

Scope and applicability
- Designed for blends containing different animal species (e.g., cashmere + sheep wool + yak). Not applicable where fibres of the same species are blended (e.g., cashmere and mohair).
Sample preparation
- Representative sampling, degreasing/washing, and mechanical powderization of fibres prior to digestion.
Enzymatic digestion
- Direct trypsin digestion of powdered fibres to release peptides; the method selects cysteine‑free marker peptides, thereby omitting a traditional protein‑reduction step (faster sample prep).
LC‑MS analysis
- Peptide separation and detection by liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC‑MS) with appropriate mass range capability (e.g., ~m/z 200–1500).
- Use of selected ion monitoring (SIM) or mass chromatograms for species-specific peptides.
Quantitation and correction
- Calculation of peak areas for marker peptides, application of correction factors (for species differences) and computation of blending ratios and Bovidae/Camelidae rates.
Reporting and validation
- Criteria for data validity, documentation of test conditions, and test report content are specified.

Practical applications and users

Textile and fibre testing laboratories - routine compositional testing and quality control of animal‑fibre products.
Manufacturers and brands - verification of raw material claims (e.g., cashmere content) and prevention of mislabeling or adulteration.
Regulatory bodies and customs - enforcement of labeling laws and import/export verification.
Forensic and research labs - authentication of heritage textiles or research on fibre processing effects.
Advantages include robust performance on processed samples, quantitative capability for blending ratios, and faster sample preparation by avoiding reduction steps.

Related standards (if applicable)

ISO 20418-1 (related LC‑MS procedure with protein reduction)
ISO 1833 (all parts) - quantitative chemical analysis of non‑animal fibres
ISO/TR 11827 - microscopical morphological identification
ISO 17751 (all parts) - microscopical quantitative analysis of animal fibres
ISO 3696, ISO 1833-1 - referenced for reagents and sampling principles

This standard is essential for accurate, reproducible proteomic analysis of animal hair fibres and supports reliable textile authentication and compositional testing.

Related standards

Standards mentioned in the description

Abstract

Overview

Keywords: ISO 20418-3:2020, LC-MS, peptide detection, proteomic analysis, animal hair fibres, cashmere authentication, textile testing.

Key technical topics and requirements

Scope and applicability
- Designed for blends containing different animal species (e.g., cashmere + sheep wool + yak). Not applicable where fibres of the same species are blended (e.g., cashmere and mohair).
Sample preparation
- Representative sampling, degreasing/washing, and mechanical powderization of fibres prior to digestion.
Enzymatic digestion
- Direct trypsin digestion of powdered fibres to release peptides; the method selects cysteine‑free marker peptides, thereby omitting a traditional protein‑reduction step (faster sample prep).
LC‑MS analysis
- Peptide separation and detection by liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC‑MS) with appropriate mass range capability (e.g., ~m/z 200–1500).
- Use of selected ion monitoring (SIM) or mass chromatograms for species-specific peptides.
Quantitation and correction
- Calculation of peak areas for marker peptides, application of correction factors (for species differences) and computation of blending ratios and Bovidae/Camelidae rates.
Reporting and validation
- Criteria for data validity, documentation of test conditions, and test report content are specified.

Practical applications and users

Textile and fibre testing laboratories - routine compositional testing and quality control of animal‑fibre products.
Manufacturers and brands - verification of raw material claims (e.g., cashmere content) and prevention of mislabeling or adulteration.
Regulatory bodies and customs - enforcement of labeling laws and import/export verification.
Forensic and research labs - authentication of heritage textiles or research on fibre processing effects.
Advantages include robust performance on processed samples, quantitative capability for blending ratios, and faster sample preparation by avoiding reduction steps.

Related standards (if applicable)

ISO 20418-1 (related LC‑MS procedure with protein reduction)
ISO 1833 (all parts) - quantitative chemical analysis of non‑animal fibres
ISO/TR 11827 - microscopical morphological identification
ISO 17751 (all parts) - microscopical quantitative analysis of animal fibres
ISO 3696, ISO 1833-1 - referenced for reagents and sampling principles

This standard is essential for accurate, reproducible proteomic analysis of animal hair fibres and supports reliable textile authentication and compositional testing.

ISO 20418-3:2020 PDF

Technical details

Abstract

Overview

Key technical topics and requirements

Practical applications and users

Related standards (if applicable)

Related standards

Abstract

Overview

Key technical topics and requirements

Practical applications and users

Related standards (if applicable)

Related standards

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