Overview
ISO 23606:2009 - Textiles: Knitted fabrics - Representation and pattern design defines standard methods for representing and drafting knitted-fabric structures. The standard specifies systems of symbolic notation, pattern-draft grids, yarn-path (loop structure) representations and rules for both weft‑knitted and warp‑knitted fabrics. ISO 23606:2009 standardizes how to describe knitted constructions unambiguously for design, production and documentation, while noting that the provided notations are not the only possible representations.
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope and terminology: Provides definitions for knitted fabrics, weft‑knitted and warp‑knitted fabrics consistent with ISO practice.
- Loop structure & yarn path: Two‑dimensional magnified line representations and dot‑matrix yarn‑path diagrams are used to show stitch geometry and yarn flow.
- Pattern drafts:
- Graphic pattern draft: pictorial representations (often for jacquard/jacquard-like work).
- Technical pattern draft: symbolic, read bottom‑to‑top according to manufacture; may be a construction or working pattern draft.
- Pattern draft grids: Standard grid types include square grids, special grids for ribs and interlocks, and dot‑matrix grids (straight and transposed) for yarn‑path mapping.
- Symbols and auxiliary signs: Standard symbols for stitches (face/reverse), tuck loops, floats, inlays, transfers, pile loops, ribs and interlocks; rules for placement of auxiliary signs (courses at right, wales below).
- Representation rules:
- Drafts built from bottom to top; start with the left needle of the front carrier and finish with the right needle of the rear carrier.
- Include at least one marked repeat in height and width; abbreviated repeats permitted but full representation mandatory if ambiguous.
- Special instructions for multi‑row working drafts (e.g., fleecy fabrics), transfer stitch marking and racking notation.
- Warp‑knitted specifics: Lapping pattern drafts, lapping diagrams, lapping notation (numeric row‑by‑row), and threading notation (presence/absence of yarns in guide bars) with guidance on ordering and repeat notation.
Applications and users
ISO 23606:2009 is useful for:
- Textile designers and technical pattern makers creating knitted fabric designs and machine programs.
- Production engineers and knit technicians documenting machine settings (lapping, threading, racking, needle positions).
- Quality, specification and R&D teams needing unambiguous construction records for reproduction, sourcing or testing.
- Software vendors developing CAD/CAM tools for knitted‑fabric pattern drafting and machine control.
Keywords: ISO 23606:2009, knitted fabrics, pattern design, representation, weft‑knitted, warp‑knitted, yarn path, pattern draft, lapping notation, threading notation.
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