Overview
ISO/TR 22582:2019 - "Cosmetics - Methods of extract evaporation and calculation of organic indexes" - is a technical report that provides supplemental guidance to ISO 16128-2 for handling extracts after solvent extraction. It addresses industry best practices for partial removal (concentration) of extraction solvents and for calculating the organic index and organic origin index of extracts when solvents are partially evaporated. Evaporation to dryness (complete removal) is not covered by this document.
Key topics and requirements
- Scope and purpose: Clarifies how solvent loss during concentration affects the organic and organic-origin indexes used in natural/organic cosmetics claims.
- Principles for index determination:
- Indexes of finished extracts should reflect the starting materials (extracted material, ingredient solvents, un‑extracted mass).
- Final extracts cannot show greater organic or natural content than the starting materials.
- Reconstitution of dried plants with water to original fresh mass is permitted; reconstitution water counts toward organic or natural content as specified.
- Solvent classification: Distinguishes ingredient solvents (retained in the extract) from process solvents (evaporated). Partial evaporation leaves remaining solvent as an ingredient solvent.
- Concentration methods: Two common concentration routes are described - vacuum cold concentration and heated evaporation. Manufacturers may recover and quantify solvents; azeotrope formation (e.g., water/ethanol) can affect calculations.
- Calculation approaches:
- Use ISO 16128-2 formulae for organic and organic origin indexes where applicable.
- Alternative approaches allowed (instrumental measurement, volatility data, published evaporation rates). Whatever method is used, the rationale and determinations must be available to interested parties.
- Equipment note: Refrigerated vacuum evaporators are commonly used to remove solvent under reduced pressure.
Practical applications and users
ISO/TR 22582:2019 is designed for practical use by:
- Cosmetic ingredient and extract producers - to determine and justify organic indexes after concentration steps.
- Formulators - to correctly assign ingredient indexes when incorporating extracts into products.
- Certification bodies and auditors - to assess documentation and methods used to calculate organic/natural content.
- Quality, regulatory and compliance teams - to ensure claims about “natural” or “organic” content align with ISO 16128 framework and documented solvent handling.
Practical benefits include consistent, transparent calculation of organic content in extracts, improved traceability of solvent handling, and defensible labeling or certification claims.
Related standards
- ISO 16128-1:2016 - Definitions for ingredients (ingredient solvent categories).
- ISO 16128-2:2017 - Criteria and formulae for calculating organic and organic origin indexes (core calculation methods referenced by this TR).
Keywords: ISO/TR 22582:2019, cosmetics, extract evaporation, organic index, organic origin index, ISO 16128-2, solvent evaporation, ingredient solvent, process solvent, natural cosmetics, organic cosmetics.
