Overview
ISO 18596:2015 specifies a laboratory test method for determining the staple length of dehaired cashmere using a hand-arranging technique. The standard defines sampling, specimen preparation, apparatus, measurement procedures and result reporting. It is also explicitly applicable to dehaired camel, dehaired yak and similar fine animal fibres. ISO 18596 supports objective staple-length measurement and includes a method for reporting short fibre content.
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope and applicability: Test method for dehaired cashmere and similar dehaired animal fibres.
- Sampling and sample size:
- Lot-sampling rules (draw samples from bales; total lot sample ≥ 300 g).
- Laboratory sample preparation by blending and splitting; test specimens drawn from at least 40 positions.
- Test specimen mass: approximately 0.09 g to 0.15 g, with two parallel tests and a spare specimen.
- Conditioning: Samples must be conditioned in a standard atmosphere in accordance with ISO 139 for a minimum of 24 hours immediately before and during testing.
- Apparatus: Simple laboratory tools including a flannelette board (black knit), tweezers, steel plate rulers (min. 0.5 mm scale) and coordinate paper.
- Measurement principle:
- Fibres are hand-arranged into a length distribution graph on a flannelette board (bottom margin ~250 mm).
- Length values are recorded at 10 mm abscissa intervals; a weighted mean of these values yields the hand-arranging staple length.
- Short fibre content: Calculated as the percentage of fibres ≤ 15 mm from the length distribution.
- Quality control of results: Average the two parallel tests; if the two results differ by > 2 mm, test the third specimen and report the mean of three.
- Test report: Must reference ISO 18596, describe the sample, state conditioning atmosphere, provide staple length and short-fibre content, note deviations or unusual events and testing date.
Applications and who uses this standard
ISO 18596:2015 is used by:
- Textile testing laboratories and quality control departments for objective measurement of cashmere staple length.
- Cashmere and luxury-fibre manufacturers for grading and sorting raw fibre.
- Fibre traders, merchants and procurement teams to verify supplier claims.
- Breeders and processors monitoring fibre quality (e.g., dehairing, scouring impacts).
The method is practical where visual or mechanical staple-length assessments need a standardized, repeatable laboratory procedure.
Related standards
- ISO 139 - Textiles: standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (normative reference).
- Other ISO textile testing documents developed under ISO/TC 38 (Textiles) may complement ISO 18596 for comprehensive fibre characterization.
Keywords: ISO 18596:2015, staple length, dehaired cashmere, hand-arranging method, short fibre content, fibre testing, textile laboratory.
